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Devero Lake St George-Ring Codera

December 19, 2009 There are only two days at the beginning of winter and the start for this nice tour is accompanied by the first snowfall in the plains.
How strange: it snows in Milan, in Brianza snows, it snows even in Voghera, but here, in Chiavenna should not be dropped not even a bow. "Should" is the right word. Something has instead fallen: a couple of inches and no more.
better that way ... usual lavish breakfast and off we go.
Blue sky, but temperatures well below zero and we think that there is someone waiting here for an hour (more or less ...); is a new and as with all new question arises: "How to recognize ?. Here, it must be him, one with 30 cm of ice on his face.
And the jokes start, timed by a succession of "Happy Birthday", to emphasize that there are better ways to spend their anniversary maximo.

There is cold? No problem ... There are tiers of the Val Codera waiting for: the legendary, Pharaonic, Val Codera scassagambe steps. Face them together with a couple, chasing and passing several times. But our tour is far longer and then take the ball, excess momentum of the two astonished hikers and free rein to the band, so that everyone can speak at its best. And indeed there are sculattate, oblique steps, sliding from "Holiday on Ice", but without consequences, if not moral. We spend so
Avedee with its frescoes, the cross of the Scouts, galleries enriched pindoloni ice, the cemetery and here we are finally coder. The refuge is open, but the manager is heavily involved in the transport of food and basic provisions for customers of upcoming festivals: for us there is a crust of cheese and a pint of cold water (I'm joking, of course).
Given that this is the only place in the whole ring covered, before the lunch break, which overlaps with that of Baggina. Sandwiches, beer and cakes for them, for me instead of a quick reconnaissance on that path and I fear will be too much ice cream. I find it a bit 'slippery with snow and some stretches, comforted by the opinion of the manager, we continue the journey. The lunch break was declared closed on the twelfth stroke of 12 o'clock.

awaits us the most technically challenging section, decorated with a couple of bridges and sight of the path of Val coder, we have just done. But it is when we reach the Tracciolino the fun starts: not only the path becomes flat as my brain scan, but also more scenic, and above all begin to have to do with 10, 100, 1000 pindoli ice as many shapes and sizes. With the rods begins to break one, which shatters into pieces accompanied by classical noise, the same one that accompanies me when I go into a china accompanied by my well known manners. We are the vandals: blades of ice break a gogo '.

Around the Tracciolino begins to lose some ' of its charm when we enter the umbra, where the temperature goes to far below freezing. There's that cycle, to reach the now nearby town of St. George, kissed (and heated) from the sun. When you encounter something interesting, I try to tell, but my prose is mortified by the general lack of interest: there are people here who only think of heaters and hot water bottle. Continuation detaching his shoulders and thinking, "The usual pearls before swine ...". Remove from

Tracciolino to go down to St. George, almost completely uninhabited. We find a good stopping point on the balcony of the cable car, where the sun is shining and we are protected from the wind ... but not from the goats that graze here in tens. Just open backpacks, we pounce on the apparent search for food and only my training as a skilled "host animals" allowed me to remove the goats when their insistence became unbearable. And to think that not even smelled and probably more I smelled all of them put together: "Eau du chavron" is my most intimate secret.

And now awaits us all down, that sooner or later we had to if we want to close the loop. Brushed her going from a cold wind that blows from the lake, we sneak in a long series of switchbacks, fortunately less slippery than expected. But the stepped descent begins to crack some patella, which is now clearly hear her squeak, almost like a seesaw summer.

At 15:30 (on time so perfect, I'm thinking of offering my experience to Trenitalia) are to cars. He missed a snack, we eat, thanks to George, birthday and crucified for the whole day.

Wonderful Val Coder: I appreciated very much today, with its people living on this remote village, with its stone quarries, the steps, the hump-backed bridges, trails and views of the coast in Lake Como. He feels that Christmas is just around the corner for a moment I feel even more good ... but only for a moment.

Vista Lake Novate Mezzola