The project is on the verge of unconsciousness, but with two strong and are willing to try, because I also brought me ...
August 7, Thursday - it starts at Verbania on late: we meet at the square of the cable car Pejo with Roby, who is from Trieste. At 23 we gather, looking for a place to camp with us Doblò, Roby tendon with one of those who jump into the air and mountains, comfortable only if you are carrying in the car. During the night, violent rain, thunder and lightning.
August 8, Friday - in the morning the weather is very uncertain time and promises as we already know forecasts. The goal is to Vioz Mantova hut and tomorrow, with beautiful weather (always what they say the weather) the intention is to make the crossing to the Casati, from Cevedale.
Take the cable car to the Cembri Doss, € 9 one way, then starts the ascent on paths 138 and then 105, before the green but soon on the rocks. There are about 1200 meters and we have heavy backpacks for the material (rope, ice axes, crampons, harness, etc.) plus the need for the night in the refuge. The pace is slow, every time we stop, my 2 mates are not set to share (you should arrive in 3535).
hound the storms around us, but fortunately thunders No one sees lightning, seems to go around but we do not take a drop. On the other hand just set foot in the shelter all hell breaks loose: blizzard, ice and wind.
The refuge is new and beautiful, give us the room, "St. Matthew", 7 beds, large windows on the storm and the snow that accumulates.
August 9, Saturday - at 5:30 in the morning after a night of wind and lack of sleep (for their headaches, for me the anxiety of the trip), we are ready for breakfast, but the situation outside is bad, it's all white and the glass started from the steps of the refuge ... The clouds hide even the top 100 feet above us, the cold little hope on the immediate dissolution of the ice. Wait a bit 'but the sky is not free and not make the crossing in the fog we please, so around 8 o'clock we put on our crampons to get down!
Later we meet at least 200 people who are going to Vioz, after all the nice weather damage ... If someone has risen to Vioz Saturday, August 9 and saw a blonde coming down I was mad black.
At least it's free to get into the cable car: hurry to go to break and there are even a ticket.
refer the plans, we change the slope, go up to Cevedale from the Santa Caterina: In the evening we are in the car park of the Hotel Forni with our usual camp and a dinner of ham and melon. It 's so clear and serene that we can see some falling star.
August 10, Sunday - in the morning when I leave the van there are two marmots huge 2 meters from me, and blissful quiet. The weather is finally beautiful. We expect 1100 meters of ascent. Go through the valley Cedec , beautiful, green, surrounded by glaciers before us stands the Great Pyramid of Zebrù behind have the Forni glacier on the right of the peaks Palon de la Mare and Cevedale.
meet other marmots, some hawks, I see with great emotion even an ermine. Paw without fear, then leaps towards me initially via fast, chest white, rest of body brown, size of squirrel, I do not imagine so small. Rest incredulos so unfortunately I can not photograph it.
arrive at a well, and water supply. Then we pass the Pizzini hut (2700 m) but without stopping. We eat very well, under the steep climb of 500 meters that separates us from Casati (3269 m). Up to this point there's also a shuttle jeep We depart from the oven, but luckily this morning it rose very little. I did not think to ask the fare.
The last climb is short (about an hour) but very intense ... Finally we arrive on the square of the refuge Casati, the landscape is completely different from the green valley from which we come and the last 500 meters of stones: in front of us now there is a large glacier which descends gently to the left toward money, and always rises gently to the right, toward the Cevedale. In front of us, practically flat, outcrop of rocks: it is the rope of 3 guns , about 30 minutes from the refuge. We decide to visit us, we bind ourselves (it's still a glacier crevasses) and go. Roby refreshes us on the path to the terms of the climb with crampons: rope downstream, upstream ice ax, and the technique to stop with the ice ax in case of. We recommend that immediately lift their feet so they do not curb our crampons into the ice making reverse head downstream. Alertness is essential. We do the usual photo of the cannon of World War I, then returns.
August 11, Monday - this time the forecasts are wrong in our favor: they gave bad in the morning, really it is a beautiful day without a cloud and no wind, ideal to go on top. The night was good, we are now all ambientatissimi, the difference in height is low (500 m), the length of the path is short (2 hours). They left us a thermos for breakfast, a tea lousy, two biscuits and a little 'bread-butter-jam: refugees are not seen before 7 am and we start exactly at 7. Ahead of us there are only a rope and a 4 by 3. We bind ourselves, we crampons, Bep ago pace, slow and steady, I in half, Roby back, stick in one hand and ax in the other.
The climb is long comfortable, gentle, scenic setting. There is an almost flat stretch before the final ramp, there with a comeback over 3 little ahead of us that are slightly slower. We enter the shadow of the mountain and begin the climb steeper and narrow with some zig-zag leading to the saddle between the top Zufall and Cevedale . There, expect that the 4 in front of us turn back then face the crest, short but very suggestive, leading to the summit: a few stones and free from snow, incredible, no cross. Are exactly 9.
We are at 3769 m, the view is indescribable and moving, you recognize the shapes of the distant Dolomites , lost in the mist, you see the entire trip that we had to do, Vioz from here, we recognize the Brenta, Presanella, Adamello , as far as the group of Bernina (we were down there 10 days ago ...), and then the Pasquale mountain right below us, the climb made by Casati, the two smaller peaks Cevedale (Zufall and Cevedale II) ... We do a lot 'of photos, ate some' bread-sausage-cheese-chocolate chatting with the 3 we had passed, arrived in the meantime, we look through the binoculars, but ultimately you have to come down on the glacier beneath us like so many ants in a row are going up several teams.
brief stop at Casati to remake the backpacks and dry the rope, then drop down to the Hotel Forni, endless ... You take the machines, unfortunately the weather turns for the worse and this time it will be for several days, so you return home. But before the long journey because we allow ourselves a small hotel after 2 nights in a van and 2 in the 3000 m refuge beyond what we dream is really a hot shower.